Real Betis Matchday Guide: Green and White in Exile at La Cartuja

Passion over polish, wherever they play. Betis carry one of the most loyal, emotional supports in Spain, a fanbase whose identity is built on sticking with the club through thick and thin, and they’ve poured that into the Olympic stadium. La Cartuja is bigger and more open than the tight old Villamarín, so in the upper tiers the sound disperses on a routine league night — but the lower rings behind the goals, built out over the old running track to sit close to the pitch, hold the strongest atmosphere, and the Gol Sur end drives the singing. For the Seville derby, European fixtures or a visit from Madrid or Barcelona, the whole place lifts and roars. Spanish kickoffs run late, often 9pm or later at weekends, so this is a night-time occasion.

This is where planning matters, because La Cartuja is not on the metro and sits on Isla de la Cartuja, north of the centre across the Guadalquivir — the opposite side of the city from the old stadium. The easiest option is the special matchday shuttle bus, which runs from Blas Infante metro station with a stop at Torre Sevilla, starting a couple of hours before kickoff. Renfe reinforces its Cercanías commuter trains from Santa Justa on big matchdays, and Tussam city buses (lines C1, C2 and 2) also serve the area. It’s around 4km from the historic centre — roughly 15 minutes by taxi or a 30–40 minute walk. Do not head to Heliópolis on matchday — the old ground is closed and on the wrong side of town. Our getting around Seville guide has the shuttle and train details.

The move has shifted the *previa* away from the Heliópolis neighbourhood bars to two main hubs. Right beside the stadium, Parque del Alamillo has become the main fan gathering point — a large park with food trucks, music and a pre-match buzz that has grown into its own tradition since the move. For a more traditional bar scene, the Alameda de Hércules in the centre is the béticos’ favourite, packed with bars and tapas and around a 25-minute walk to the ground across the Barqueta bridge. With late kickoffs, the previa doubles as dinner, so graze on tapas rather than committing to a sit-down meal. Our Seville sports bars guide points you to the Alameda spots and the Alamillo fan zone.

Payment is card and phone only, and entry is by mobile QR ticket, so keep your phone charged — there are no charging points at the gates. The layout is the key thing to understand: to make an athletics stadium feel like a football ground, a temporary lower tier was built directly over the old running track at both ends, bringing fans in the front rows within a few metres of the grass. That’s where you want to be for atmosphere — the lower Goles, ideally the Gol Sur. The upper bowl gives a good overall view but feels more distant on a quiet night. It’s not the intimate Villamarín, but the béticos have made it unmistakably their own, and on a big night it delivers.

There’s an unexpected upside to the exile: La Cartuja is bigger than the old Villamarín, so more tickets reach general sale and prices are often lower than in recent years. Sales run in phases through the official site — Soy Bético members get first access in Phase 1, with remaining seats opening to the general public in Phase 2 a few days later. Most mid-table La Liga fixtures are available at face value if you book when sales open, while the Seville derby, Madrid and Barcelona sell out during the member window, making hospitality or a verified marketplace the realistic route for those. Tickets are mobile-only. Official sale typically opens 7–10 days before kickoff. Our Real Betis tickets guide breaks down the phases and the options for big games.

Getting away from La Cartuja takes a little patience, since the crowd relies on the shuttles, Cercanías trains and buses rather than a metro at the door — the same routes that brought you in take the strain, so allow time. Most fans head back across the river into the centre, where, with matches often finishing near 11pm, Seville’s bars and restaurants are still in full swing. The Alameda de Hércules is a natural place to continue the night. If you’re staying over, a central base keeps you close to both the nightlife and the shuttle pick-up points; our Seville hotels guide covers the best-placed options.

Go to La Cartuja, not Heliópolis — for 2026/27 all home games are at the Olympic stadium across the river, not the old Villamarín.

Take the shuttle — the special matchday bus from Blas Infante metro is the simplest way to the ground with no metro line serving it.

Aim for the lower Goles — the temporary tiers over the old track, especially the Gol Sur, hold the best atmosphere.

Grab tickets at general sale — the bigger capacity means mid-table games are easier and often cheaper than in past seasons.

Start at the Alameda — the Alameda de Hércules is the classic bético pre-match, a walk across the Barqueta bridge from the ground.

Charge your phone — entry is by mobile QR only, with no charging at the gates.

Facts verified July 2026. Betis’s temporary home, capacity, transport and the Benito Villamarín return date are all subject to change — confirm the latest details on the official Real Betis website before you travel.